Easy Removable Bra Cup Sewing Tutorial

While making the Rosanna Tankini, I really wanted to have removable Bra Cups. 

Why?

They're expensive to buy.

Even to make them, the foam is expensive.

And Why not?

It's really simple when making a bra or pattern with a built in bra. 

First off, cut an extra front bra piece, minus the entire straps.  I like cutting up until there's a 2" gap to fit the bra up in from where the strap normally would be. 

I used "swim," or "athletic," lining to create this layer. 

Next, baste the sides together as shown below, including the arm curve, and follow up by basting the neck curve.

Make sure to leave an opening between either side of the straps (essentially the part of the strap that is cut off) and the bottom, as pictured.

 You're ALMOST done!

I like to sew a middle seam line so the cups stay where they ought to. 

Once your top or bra are complete, just slip the bra inserts in through the holes you left at the straps, and they're just as easy to take out. 

If you really want to get fancy, you can do some ruching and place an elastic in the middle while stretching it (not the fabric) and sewing the line - but it depends on the look you are going for. 

Ruching Ties are relatively simple, but only really practical if it encompasses all layers of the fabric (not just a built in bra where the exterior top is meant to be flat. 

Center ruching

Center ruching

Flat Front (aka no ruching, but built in bra) 

Alternatively, you can sew your cups into the lining or Bra fabric by trying your bra on, pinning the cups inside (without stabbing yourself with pins), and use the zig zag stitch to sew around the circumference of the cups. I only do this with cheapo cups, otherwise it's the "sharing is caring" method of removable cups. 

Sewn in Cups

Happy sewing!