Pattern Hack: Mamma Can Do It - Men's Fit Pants

Occasionally, I must sew for someone else, and that preferred person is Husband. 

He is EXTREMELY picky with clothing, and like me, not a cookie cutter straight fit, so after a few failed attempts last year, I finally found a few patterns that worked with him (with the sizing guidance of the pattern designers and groups).

I had the opportunity recently to test the new Men's Fit Pants and Shorts pattern for Mamma Can Do It, and Husband was happy I was sewing yet again for him. 

I lacked Husband's presence during the muslin version (aka he was snoring in bed), so didn't have the right elastic measurement other than his waist size, which isn't where the pants sit on him - they sit on his lower abdomen, so I safety pinned him in for fit pictures while my head wasn't Migraine Spinning too badly. 

I ended up taking a pair of sleep shorts I made him for Christmas, added a few more inches as they were a BIT snug (things happen when you make clothes in secret for a surprise - don't use tight Jeans as a size guideline - ha ha), and got the perfect elastic fit for the final pair of shorts.  

Pockets and look at that Elastic - fits perfectly without being tight! 

I did place the fake fly on the Version 1 of the test pattern, and although it was widened slightly for the final version, he still felt the reprint was too thin, so I left it off his final shorts. 

I have sewn fake flies in 3-4 other patterns previously, and honestly found these instructions the easiest to follow - especially with my current brain fog and slow brain state - so you'll be pleased at the ease of adding the fly if you opt for that selection.  

Similar to Zippers, sewing flies - fake or real - is not an easy sewing instruction to explain, and I've had to watch videos in the past to get it.  These instructions differ from others, and I got it first time without hesitation. 

I didn't have to lengthen the shorts or alter beyond the straight sizing I made (size 46 as per measurements guideline included in the pattern instructions).  And he's 6'-2", so this gives you an idea of where the normal shorts sit.  And he has had to have shorts lengthened 2-3" with other patterns to hit his knees as they do with this pattern, so it was nice to not have to alter anything on the pattern. 

Front

Back - Look at those seams!  I'm getting good!

Then on day 5 (6?) of non-stop migraine head pounding, I was saddened to find out that the custom fabric I'd been coveting for almost a year for him wasn't quite enough to cut the entire shorts out of. 

I wasn't leaving the house to hope that I could find any decent fabric at the closest knit fabric store a 30-40 minutes drive from home in traffic on the weekend (or weekday in the full Migraine zone). 

So I did what I do for myself normally. I found a nice basic complimentary cotton lycra fabric,  and colour blocked. 

Front is one fabric type...

From the side, you can see the grey fabric - vertical - and the nice flat pockets! 

But what makes this pattern awkward to colour block (but gives the shorts/pants their flattering shape), is the curve in the actual pattern piece. 

So I measured across the back piece - 12.25" at the leg - and marked the pattern centre from top to bottom, and literally cut the pattern piece in half vertically.

I cut two mirror imaged pieces from the custom fabric, and the other half from the normal cotton lycra (light grey in my case) - ensuring there was a 3/8" seam allowance extra on either side to allow me to sew them together in the centre. 

So with my stretch stitch, I placed one full set of the back panels right sides together (one custom and one grey piece) - ensuring they matched the full pattern piece before sewing (because seam ripping a stretch stitch isn't fun!). 

I pressed the seam flat, pinned each side of the seam with dressmakers pins, flipped over the full back piece, and top stitched on either side of the seam, creating not only a flat seam, but giving the seam a professional look. 

From that point onwards, I was able to sew up Husband's new shorts with side and front pocket options and a Regular fit.

He likes his behind in it, and gave a little wiggle - asking Husband's to pose for pattern test photos either entails silliness or grumpiness on his end.

He just started wiggling...so I couldn't resist - is THIS what Husbands think we do during pattern photo shoots??

He is EXTREMELY picky with shorts/pants, and blames what his mother gave him for slight bulkiness in the front area, but this is a normal complaint he has - we're still keeping together shorts that should of gone away a long time ago, but he can't find replacements he likes.  

So I'll attempt these again in perhaps a medium thickness stretch cargo pants style fabric (if that exists!), with the fake fly widened, in the Wide leg style to see if that gives him the room he wants. He will also prefer the wider leg option that the Wide Leg style offers, as he is a baggy clothes style guy. 

So overall, Husband has worn his shorts 3 days in a row (I'm sneaking them into the wash today!), and loves them as lounging shorts.

The other testers have great "serious" pants and shorts and everyone did a great job making their Husbands and mates a bit happier - sewing for all of those people we love! 

And the other husbands are just as silly as mine - maybe it goes with the sewing wife territory?  One man also did a wiggle, another posed like he was a super model, then there was tractor farm guy (I NEED that fabric for Husband's next pair!), and my friend An - oh An.  

An's the European version of me. One day I *will* go to Europe, visit Husband's family in England, go back to the Black Forest region of Germany (and see that famous castle I was kyboshed on in lieu of the Mercedes Benz Museum - which was cool....but I didn't see any "real to me" castles), and spend a week with my friend An, her puppy, and her Husband who seems just as silly as mine. He did a twirl video - I'm so proud of him!  

We have to keep a tally of how many people we get to twirl in tests now - it's our way of spreading sparkle and joy in the sewing world even when we're not 100% our best. 

Or An can come to Canada and we'll float down the Riviere Noire in Unicorns at our camp - a 10km river float that lasts 4 hours until you get beached at the area we park our ATV.

I really do float down the river in a Unicorn!  

Our men can do camp stuff, twirl, and wiggle in their Mamma Can Do It's Men Fit Pants while we're busy floating. 

Sew on and don't be afraid to use this hack for other patterns - it's a great use of fabric, and after the first few times you do it, it's just second nature and looks really quite amazing!  Take your time, and make your man some bottoms!   

Sewing Pattern Review: Bella Sunshine Design's Clementine Top (and Dress!)

I always enjoy the ease of sewing Bella Sunshine Designs patterns - the Clementine is no exception. 

It features:

- A scoop neck

- 3 sleeve lengths (or sleeveless)

- Shirt to maxi dress lengths

- Plain or banded skirt options

- Full Bust Adjustment pattern pieces (if more than 3" difference between upper and full bust)

The instructions for putting together the bodice are similar to the Amelia Top, but the neck is a lot less revealing (office and big bust friendly without adjustments!) - much to Husband's dismay :).

I opted for a few shirt length tops, which also in turn helped use up some scrap pieces of fabric that were perfect for Clementine.

The "skirt" part is gathered, and the easiest part of construction - having a cute flattering flare that suits my body well. 

I graded part way down the bodice side down to the bottom of the bodice from a 4 to 12. TRUST your current measurements and circle them in the pattern guide for the perfect fit.  If you are unsure, Melissa or Danielle are great at determining your sizing based on upper & full bust, and waist/hip measurements. 

If you have a long or short torso, there is a shorten/lengthen line that will help the bodice bottom sit at your proper waist. 

I didn't alter anything, as I have a long torso for my 5'-2" frame (making it difficult to find swimsuits when I was younger - they all looked weird on me despite my toothpick size at the time). 

If you want a fun flattering top (or dress), this is a cute pattern that I've been able to wear at the office and at play (fabric pending). 

My first top is my I Lava You top - made from stretch cotton (black) and some Cotton Lycra I Lava You fabric I won during my first sew-a-long for on a Facebook page sponsored by the Fabric Geeks. This was the last of the Yard I won, but I managed to make 3 outfits that contain this cute summery fabric. 

I've paired the top with my Bella Sunshine Designs Sansa Pants - which are again, great for office wear or for play. And SO comfy. Who needs zippers, buttons, or uncomfortable waistbands in pants when you can wear some Sansas?

It's a fun shirt!

Deep thoughts of my next Clementine

Perfectly flattering and sits where I like it to

My second top was made with lovely grey chiffon with white dots from Fabricland and a cute feathered cotton lycra fabric from Okee Dokee Fabrics.  

This top is more whimsy, and a great use for scrap Chiffon or flowy fabrics for a different look and feel.

Love the co-ordination and flare

It was about -15 or -20 Celsius outside during photos - but I do it for Melissa, as she's awesome!

So, it's a lovely sew with a multitude of looks depending on fabric and length you decide to go.  

Sew up on your summer dress and shirt stash with light flowy fabrics and test out the plain and banded skirt options for your upcoming Clementines - they're all so pretty!

And remember to have fun while sewing - I sure do!

             
 

Sewing Pattern Review - Bella Sunshine Designs Eden Leggings

I have a few go-to leggings patterns and thought I was good to go.

Then my ladies at Bella Sunshine Designs held a pattern testing for their newest pattern - the Eden Leggings .

Melissa looked so happy sporting her leggings in front of the Disneyland logo (and I am terrified of Disneyland due to crowds, people, and long line ups - not my idea of fun) - and she named it such a whimsy name...I jumped into the testing queue.

I made not one, but 4 pairs of Edens! 

The areas that tends to make most leggings uncomfortable are the groin and waistlines.

These leggings don't have OR need any adjustments or extra fabric in the groin area - there is no fabric crawling where it ought not to.

There are 3 waistline heights, and even the option for a fold down waist band.

I prefer the mid rise, and with the right stretch fabric band, there is no muffin top (or bottom), for a stellar flattering look on ladies of all shapes and sizes.

There are multiple height adjustment lines,  mid and full length leg versions, and a great use of fun fabric! 

My first pair was my test pair - capris length spandex rainbow print.  And I took off 2" from the length for the perfect fit. 

I also unassumingly stripe matched perfectly - this was NOT intentional.

My Second pair is magical. Because I had this awesome Unicorn fabric, and it happened to be the EXACT length I needed for capris length. I paired it with some spandex sparkly velvet - because it was a magical fabric.

My third pair was Star Wars - I didn't have enough fabric for a full mirror image, so I cut the pattern piece in half and made the front Storm Troopers, the back Dri Fit Fabric (meshing is great for sweat wicking!), and the band is also a spandex cotton Star Wars that I got in a fabric stash sale that only had enough height for the band.

And my final pair was made from my coveted Water Tower Textiles Fleece Backed Cotton Lycra, and is the most amazing fabric ever! It wicks sweat, is perfect for camp, keeps me warm without over heating...and Eden was calling its name.

I paired it with a sparkly spandex band - because SPARKLES.

I wear my Edens almost every day after work now. They flatter my behind, there's no camel toe, and they are a super quick sew. By my 3rd & 4th pairs, I didn't even need the instructions.

And well when pattern testing, I always have fun - a dare myself to do silly things. Like fling myself into the cold snow because I said I would.

So grab your Eden Pattern now!  You won't regret it - they're my go-to leggings pattern now, and I'm totally going to hack them with fun stuff when I'm in need of replacement leggings.

When Your Wardrobe is Made By You Most Days!

Some days I get to work and realize I made ALL my clothes! 

After a year of starting to Sew My Wardrobe, this seems to happen more often than not. And considering I feel I’m a slow sewer with my Husqvarna Viking Emerald (aka NOT a serger) and meticulous nature, the more you sew, the more efficient one becomes.

Why don’t you give it a try too?

Today I’m sporting:

-        My Winter Wear Designs Cross Hem ¾ length sleeved top, which I used scraps for the smaller underlay from a beautiful velvet skirt I had no chance of ever fitting into again.   

To the left - look at that fabric cross! And my first V neck - perfection!

-        My Winter Wear Designs Provence Pea Coat – made with sparkly twill and stretch star fleece! I included the removable hood, however, need to add on a belt, as apparently my waist has come in a bit since the fall (boo yah!)

-        My 5 out of 4 Zen Pants – made with stretch suiting fabric with cute C/L I Lava You fabric inside the pockets because I’m silly. I made the back pockets too, because POCKETS!  This was an easy sew, and although geared for activewear, make the COMFIEST non-skinny pants at work EVER. I wear Zens at least twice a week to work. And I work in the office 4 days a week. They also make my behind look amazeballs!

-  My Rebecca Page Circle Cardie – These are another office Staple that I can’t stop wearing.  The flow, the speed to sew up, and the options. I find it also doesn’t use heaps of fabric.  There are even kids & doll sizes to up the extra cuteness factor!

Secret photo taken at work between people passing my pod.

Why sew my wardrobe?

My measurements are out of whack. No amount of Squats, lunges, or cycling will get rid of this booty, and after a frustrating experience looking for leggings in January 2017, my dabbling into sewing became my passion. Well as much as my wallet can afford fabric – never enough fabric to create most patterns with just one metre, so I’ve developed the knack of colour blocking and making 1 metre of fabric last through 2-3 garments (and then some!).

I want to try SO many fabrics, hence the 1 metre limitation most of the time – I just don’t want to miss out on fabric awesomeness.

My full bust is multiple sizes smaller than my hips, my upper bust is in line with my waist, and I have that hourglass shape with legs built for squats and cycling.

So I’ve become an expert in grading, measuring myself monthly to ensure proper fit.  I rarely make a muslin (or test) garment, trusting in the testing experience that helped bring the pattern into reality by the ever talented pattern makers I have grown to admire. 

There are pattern makers I love (you KNOW who you are!), ones I’d give my favourite fabric to just to test with them, and a few who left a sour taste in my mouth and I sadly won’t be able to create their garments any longer.

I’ve met cyber-friends across the Globe who share my passion, and put up with my silliness during pattern testing.  We all have stressful lives in some way, so I add a silly dance and groove it up for most of my tests (at least once) – once I know my pattern makers are a bit weird (in a good way) too!

Heck, I swear my friend, An, is my sister from another mother and father across the Ocean. Whenever we travel to Europe, I’m totally visiting her family and bringing her some Canadian fabrics to rub her face in and sew with (sorry An, it will be single metres!).

I have my go-to fabric places – Water Tower Textiles and Okee Dokee Fabrics (both Canadian) – and sometimes I can find some test fabric that isn’t totally hideous or overpriced at Fabricland, but this is rare most of the time.  Even their crap fabric is priced more than what I am willing to pay. I mean, if a test pattern actually works out first try, I’d at least like the option to be able to wear my garment vs just throwing it into the scrap pile or garbage.

So back on topic – sew your wardrobe. As long as you have a workhorse machine, you can do it too.  I had only sewn costumes before this adventure. Now there are few skills I haven’t tried thanks to the sewing community out there.

You can do it too!




More secret Pod photos at work!

***Affiliate Links Above used - I love these patterns, and without the help of those who love their patterns, marketing would be extremely difficult for the pattern makers we love and learn to love. Affiliate links help with the hours, fabric, and tears that go behind testing each pattern in order to provide a real-person view on the patterns for you (and me!) 

Sewing Pattern Review - 5 out of 4's Aspen Fleece Vest

At our cottage land, it gets chilly - sometimes I REALLY only need to layer my core, but I was lacking a fleece vest (and was jealous of the 5 out of 4 Halftime Hoodie I made into a sleeveless version for Husband)

So 5 out of 4 to my outdoor wear rescue yet again! 

I found the Aspen Fleece vest pattern, and had just purchased some stretch fleece for a jacket I was making, and just happened to have an extra meter of fabric.

So I paired it with some stretchy thick knit black and neon pink fabric for the lining, and have the most awesome core-warming vest for working outside at our cottage land.

I'm the most colourful gal at our cottage land!

It was perfect timing as the fall weather was a hit and miss, and we no longer had to wear bug jackets or rain coats.

I opted for a full zip and regular unzipped side pockets. 

The zipper instructions were easy to follow, as were all other instructions as normal with Jessica's patterns. 

I really like the amount of pieces in the vest, as that meant I could scrapbust a few pieces in and get the most out of my fabric. 

The high collar is really a bonus, as it keeps my neck warm while outside with just a hat on - once in awhile it's nice *not* to have a hood on something (rarely...but If I could have hoods, thumbhole cuffs, and pockets on everything I made, I would!).

But that doesn't stop me from wearing a hoodie tank top underneath!

So for the Spring, Fall, and Winter, this is another outdoor staple I will eventually wear out, thus will make a back up with the different pocket options for versatility!

And because I can.

Grab your Aspen Vest pattern, as I highly recommend it for your outdoor stylish wardrobe!

Mom's Craft Room Reorganization Surprise - Day 1





Growing up, my mom's sewing room was a little room made from melamine board walls...and looking back, there was no organization. I remember boxes dangling ready to fall at any moment, garbage bags full of fabric and unfinished projects (and hiding there MANY times sometimes for fun, other times out of fear).

 

 

So when I visited my parents before they left for Florida in December, I asked for something simple. Velcro and Elastic.

 

 

My mom checked at least 5 or 6 places, and I then noticed her room of chaos with new eyes!  No wonder she has half finished projects and procrastinates.  I wouldn't be able to work in that environment either. 

 

So begins my awesome train of thought that I would reorganize her supplies and make her workspace her oasis - Beach themed!

 

I have pictures of the after-Day 1 chaos before I gave up...likely after 8 hours of working on just taking everything apart! 

 

 

This was the Closet Before I even attempted to take anything out of it...it was actually the least scary part of this project.  Minus continually finding MORE fabric flowers just when I thought I'd seen them all.



 

 

 





This  is the oldest bobbin holder and pin cushion - I swear they are older than I am!  Good idea for someone with 20 bobbins...not so much with someone who has closer to 100 bobbins!

 

 

 

 

 These are also some of the oldest bobbins ever.  I remember these from when I was a kid. 

 

These have since been packed in a little plastic organizer with clear dividers - separated by colour of course!

 

The bins. The containers. The Lace. The scrapbook stickers.

 

 

The EVERYTHING! 

 



This is the left side of the closet...nothing is labeled, and it was so random what I found here.

 

On the left you can see the beginnings of my flower organization. By Colour.

 

Those containers...not big enough for most of the colours.



I no longer like fake flowers. 

 

 

The plan for each tin is to decorate it nautical themed - ribbon, lace, that fabric that you wrap around trees in the fall in preparation for winter (I can't think of the word right now).

 

They are labeled by flower, so no words.  Here's hoping Mom's not colour blind!

 

 



Look at them. Look at all the colours NOT organized!

 



Close up of the lace. This came home with me eventually to be separated and wound separately onto handcut 2.5" squared foam board pieces or clothes pegs if they were just little scrappy ribbon bits.

 

They filled an entire Blue Ikea Bag and then some.

 



Some of the scrapbooking supplies.

 

 

This was nothing compared to what I found throughout the upcoming weeks...

 





Left wall area - this is how I left if after Day 1...so many things to sort through!

 

This was the end of the day before the sun set - January 13, 2018.

 

Who knew 1.5 months later that I would still be at it?

 

I'm twitching just looking at this.