One Stitch at a Time - The 5 out of 4 Patterns Sandra Dolman Tunic Sewing Pattern Review

Never underestimate the power of a woman with a sewing machine. 

There's always sew much fabric and sew little time...but there should be time to sew up the new 5 out of 4 Sandra Dolman Tunic (or Dress)!

The new Sandra Dolman Tunic/Dress pattern has several fun options:
- Tunic or Dress length
- Short or long bottom split bands
- Short or long sleeves
- Optional hood
- V Neck or Crew Neck
- Optional Thumbhole Cuffs

I sewed up my Sandra with some random waffle knit from Water Tower Textiles, and beautiful Double Brushed Polyester (DBP) from Libelle Sewing. 

They mesh together so beautifully, and go well with my 5 out of 4 Zen Pants (also Libelle Sewing fabric - Scuba!).

This top was easy to sew up, and I love the options and oversized fit.  It definitely makes me feel better about the lumps and bumps I don't like about myself. 

And I love that it covers my behind - it's always cold!  

I tested this top out as a layer while closing up our trailer, and the hood made it nice, as the back of my neck didn't get cold, and I looked fashionable while sweeping snow off the trailer roof. 

As you can see, it's not a slim fit top, but has a nice drapey feel to it.  With that in mind, I definitely recommend a lightweight fabric such as the Waffle KNit or light Sweater knit to prevent a weird boxy feel. 

Get your pattern here, and sew it up for all seasons!

**Affiliate Links Above used - I love these patterns, and without the help of those who love their patterns, marketing would be extremely difficult for the pattern makers we love and learn to love. Affiliate links help with the hours, fabric, and tears that go behind testing each pattern in order to provide a real-person view on the patterns for you (and me!) 

Sewing Pattern Review: Made for Mermaids Lounge & Lace Collection

Ooh La La!

When the Made for Mermaids Mama Bridgette Bralette and Mama Victoria came out, I was stoked to start making my own undergarments. And ones that Husband would like!

I don't hold the Mama part of the name against them, despite not being a mother - not having kids hasn't been made part of the inclusivity club yet - c'est la vie!

Finding lace fabric at a decent price as a bit of a task. For the metres required for each garment, and at anywhere from $5-$9 a metre, no wonder they charge so much in stores for lacey undergarments! 

I used my sleuthy skills and found a seller on Ebay.ca who had random packages of finished stretch lace in multiple metres at a steal of a price. 

I took the chance, spent $60 on 20 metres of lace, and was pleasantly surprised when it arrived. It was soft, nice enough colours, and enough for 1-2 panties and a bra per colour. Yay! 

The Mama Victoria - Cheekies and Thong:

You have two options:
- Cheekies
- Thongs

These honestly took less than half an hour a pair - including cutting -they are SO simple to sew up.

My first pair I used stretch velvet and some random stretch frilly elastic I had on hand. They are a bit small, despite going by the measurements on the pattern. 

Still wearable, but I reprinted the pattern in the next size up for a more favourable size for my next 4 pairs.

I used scrap swimwear lining I had on hand for the lining part (no one wants lace in their nether regions!), and everything sewed together without any issues. 

The instructions were easy to follow, and I love the way both pairs fit.

The thong doesn't ride anywhere it ought not to, and I don't even remember I'm wearing them when they're on. They don't dig into my hips or belly either - yay!

I have no need to buy underwear again - when I can make them!  They don't cut in, and I can colour block and use scraps if need be.

From fabric vs lace, they feel equally divin.

Mama Bridgette Bralette & Nightie

I didn't splurge enough for a nightie, but I did for a matching bra for every two panties! 

There are 3 back options:
- Racerback
- Cross Back
- Full Back

I have a lot of neck and shoulder pain, so try to avoid anything that will put more pressure on that area.

That being said, I did make one of each back type to see how they felt.

The instructions are detailed and easy to follow - and the PDF even includes links to video instructions, which are SO helpful! 

Full Back

Racerback

The first two bras, I once again went by measurements taken that night, and the bra just felt too tight with a lot of pressure.

So I sized up for the third one for a comfortable fit.

My only issue (other than the sizing) is that there wasn't a tutorial for how to insert a bra cup. So I'll do that next time, as currently they just sit outside the bra so I don't show the world how cold it is.

Learning curves!

The Raceback and Cross Back options aren't too bad, but I can wear them for an hour before the pressure is too much - plus to wear clothes over them without anyone seeing the neck portion of the bras is pretty difficult.

So they are purely sexy-time bras.

The Full back is perfect. 

I can wear clothes over it without the straps showing, and it holds my decent busom without me falling out or feeling unsupported.

I really need to make more time to make more though, as Husband complains about my Lululemon Sports Bras (SOOOO comfy too). I only have the one Full Back Bridgette made so far that fits, so after a wear, in the wash it goes and out comes the sports bra! 

So it's comparably as comfy as my Lulu sports bras. That says a lot, as I love them.

So take the challenge and sew some undergarments. I recommend sizing up and using "not coveted" fabric for your first go to ensure the fit is proper before digging into fabric you would cry if it didn't work out.

When Your Wardrobe is Made By You Most Days!

Some days I get to work and realize I made ALL my clothes! 

After a year of starting to Sew My Wardrobe, this seems to happen more often than not. And considering I feel I’m a slow sewer with my Husqvarna Viking Emerald (aka NOT a serger) and meticulous nature, the more you sew, the more efficient one becomes.

Why don’t you give it a try too?

Today I’m sporting:

-        My Winter Wear Designs Cross Hem ¾ length sleeved top, which I used scraps for the smaller underlay from a beautiful velvet skirt I had no chance of ever fitting into again.   

To the left - look at that fabric cross! And my first V neck - perfection!

-        My Winter Wear Designs Provence Pea Coat – made with sparkly twill and stretch star fleece! I included the removable hood, however, need to add on a belt, as apparently my waist has come in a bit since the fall (boo yah!)

-        My 5 out of 4 Zen Pants – made with stretch suiting fabric with cute C/L I Lava You fabric inside the pockets because I’m silly. I made the back pockets too, because POCKETS!  This was an easy sew, and although geared for activewear, make the COMFIEST non-skinny pants at work EVER. I wear Zens at least twice a week to work. And I work in the office 4 days a week. They also make my behind look amazeballs!

-  My Rebecca Page Circle Cardie – These are another office Staple that I can’t stop wearing.  The flow, the speed to sew up, and the options. I find it also doesn’t use heaps of fabric.  There are even kids & doll sizes to up the extra cuteness factor!

Secret photo taken at work between people passing my pod.

Why sew my wardrobe?

My measurements are out of whack. No amount of Squats, lunges, or cycling will get rid of this booty, and after a frustrating experience looking for leggings in January 2017, my dabbling into sewing became my passion. Well as much as my wallet can afford fabric – never enough fabric to create most patterns with just one metre, so I’ve developed the knack of colour blocking and making 1 metre of fabric last through 2-3 garments (and then some!).

I want to try SO many fabrics, hence the 1 metre limitation most of the time – I just don’t want to miss out on fabric awesomeness.

My full bust is multiple sizes smaller than my hips, my upper bust is in line with my waist, and I have that hourglass shape with legs built for squats and cycling.

So I’ve become an expert in grading, measuring myself monthly to ensure proper fit.  I rarely make a muslin (or test) garment, trusting in the testing experience that helped bring the pattern into reality by the ever talented pattern makers I have grown to admire. 

There are pattern makers I love (you KNOW who you are!), ones I’d give my favourite fabric to just to test with them, and a few who left a sour taste in my mouth and I sadly won’t be able to create their garments any longer.

I’ve met cyber-friends across the Globe who share my passion, and put up with my silliness during pattern testing.  We all have stressful lives in some way, so I add a silly dance and groove it up for most of my tests (at least once) – once I know my pattern makers are a bit weird (in a good way) too!

Heck, I swear my friend, An, is my sister from another mother and father across the Ocean. Whenever we travel to Europe, I’m totally visiting her family and bringing her some Canadian fabrics to rub her face in and sew with (sorry An, it will be single metres!).

I have my go-to fabric places – Water Tower Textiles and Okee Dokee Fabrics (both Canadian) – and sometimes I can find some test fabric that isn’t totally hideous or overpriced at Fabricland, but this is rare most of the time.  Even their crap fabric is priced more than what I am willing to pay. I mean, if a test pattern actually works out first try, I’d at least like the option to be able to wear my garment vs just throwing it into the scrap pile or garbage.

So back on topic – sew your wardrobe. As long as you have a workhorse machine, you can do it too.  I had only sewn costumes before this adventure. Now there are few skills I haven’t tried thanks to the sewing community out there.

You can do it too!




More secret Pod photos at work!

***Affiliate Links Above used - I love these patterns, and without the help of those who love their patterns, marketing would be extremely difficult for the pattern makers we love and learn to love. Affiliate links help with the hours, fabric, and tears that go behind testing each pattern in order to provide a real-person view on the patterns for you (and me!) 

Sewing Pattern Review - George + Ginger Mood Dress

Scraps - every sewists bane of existence. 　

What do we do with scraps? 　

With knits, depending on the stretch, they can be useful for colour blocking, undergarments, bands, and other little projects. 　

With non-stretch wovens - it's more difficult to use up the smaller pieces. I use them for small projects like toys...but that is a rarity. 　

 

Full Billy Book Case of colour organized scraps!

Scraps before I labeled colours on each bin

 

The George + Ginger Pattern collection came out with the "Mood Dress," which immediately inspired me! 　

I am short at 5'-2", however, thus the initial length of the dress was daunting. So what did I do? I cut each of the mood strip pieces in half lengthwise in hopes that I'd have a knee length (or close to) dress. 　

What I ended up with was a dress just below mid calf that is full of awesomeness and fun! 　

With a fitted bodice, that fits perfectly with my G + G measurements (size 8 bust graded down to size 14 waist), and was a delight to sew.

 　

Maybe not such a delight to cut, as each strip is individually cut x 4 pieces to create the chevron look. 　

 

Some pieces near the bottom, like the Star Wars fabric (sorry, Husband, I had to have something with Star Wars in my wardrobe, even though I bought the fabric for you!). So I blocked a few pieces together on the bottom strips to make it work, and sewed a pretty line of lace and ribbon for any pieces I did this for. 　

 

With the number of different complimentary patterns used in my dress, this is noticeable to me only - it looks funky and is definitely original! 　

 

The Star Wars blends in, so I am able to actually wear my Mood Dress to my Business Casual office! 　

 

Although I wish it were shorter (I'll add one less layer next time - maybe half the strips again for less length an add nice ribbon or lace to the bottom edging), I love it. 　

It's flattering, sassy, and fun!　

 

it would make a great prom or fancy dress with the right fabrics - think draped silk or the fabric you see bridesmaids dresses made from! 　

 

There is also an option for a gathered knee length skirt (no chevron colour blocking involved)....although I could attempt this dress again with the gathered skirt and chevron or make just plain strips length or width wise to still make this an awesome woven scrap-busting dress option for my closet! 　

 

I love the sass and style of George + Ginger Patterns - the Mood Dress is no exception.  They put me out of my comfort zone at times, but make me feel beautiful once I adorn on of her designs!

Pattern Review - New Horizons Tami Revolution Double Hoodie

Back in April 2017, I didn't have a lot of true sewing experience, but sew-a-longs and pattern testing have changed that - the challenge in my mind vs reality were totally different.

Last year I participated in my first sew-a-long with New Horizons, and won a lovely bundle of fabric for my completed hoodies! 

Thank goodness for the sew-a-long though, as it included a useful link for how to make thumb hole cuffs (which I ADORE thanks to my past life love of Lululemon clothing).

The Tami Revolution Double Hoodie had my interest at the Thumbhole Cuffs, hood, pockets, and a new sewing challenge - a full zipper (or any zipper).

THUMBHOLE CUFFS!!

The only zipper issue I had was user error when I was too tired, and accidentally cut into the zipper nubs mid-way completing my hoodie, and had to go out and get a replacement zipper. The sewing part was super simple, and I was able to follow directions as a person who had put in maybe 2 zippers into anything over my lifetime.

Zipper (and more thumbhole cuffs - can you tell I'm excited?)

As a more beginner PDF sewist, understanding directions for a multi-option pattern were confusing - but today I can use multi-option patterns like it's nobody's business.  Why?  For example, the pages zip from page 5 to skipping over to page 15 then back to 11, depending on your options - making the sew-a-long steps easier to follow than the actual pattern at the time.

*But* Terra has been working hard with her pattern testers for more fluid patterns, including You Tube video links for more difficult to understand concepts.  I continually use the thumbhole cuff tutorial every time I make them, as I can't understand the instructions written, no matter HOW they are written - I'm visual like that). The New Horizons Group is also helpful for any inquiries or how-to's.

The end result of creating my first hoodie was a proud achievement. And MUCH easier than I expected.

Wearing it in OUR forest!

The options for the Hoodie include:
- Double Hood
- Crossover Hood
- Standard Hood
- Front zip
- Thumbhole Cuffs
- Standard Cuffs
- Shoulder Zip Accent
- Drawstring
- Kangaroo Pockets
- Side Pockets (POCKETS!!!)

Probably not the right inner fabric (thick silky retro fabric), but I love the hood!

And sizes range from XX Small to 26.  What does this mean?
- Bust - 29" to 51.5"
- Waist - 23" to 47"
- Hips - 31" to 53.5"

I wore mine almost every weekend at camp - and it kept me plenty warm - and I admit is quite cute - I know I was hoarding that beautiful teal cherry blossom stretch fleece for a reason! 

I still wear it while working from home Fridays, as it's cold in the basement!

So grab your Tami Hoodie pattern today and experience the satisfaction of a useful and versatile pattern for cozy nights and brisk mornings!

The More 2 Hug Diana Dolman Sewing Pattern

The Diana Dolman was drafted by the cutest European designer - with those of us who aren't stick thin in mind.



The pattern is meant for knit fabric (but stretch doesn't seem to be the biggest factor, so 2 way or 4 way stretches will do).



There are a plethora of options - giving you upwards of 40 different designs - more than one shirt a day in your closet if you love the Diana!



- Short, 3/4, or long sleeve lengths
- Cold shoulder option (hole showing a bit of skin!)
- Front ties option
- Straight, waistband, or rounded hems
- t-shirt or tunic lengths
- hi-lo tunic length option



And sizes are from small through 4x!



I created a few different versions for myself


The front tie option t-shirt with cuffs gives a more casual t-shirt feel with a cute front tie.


It's great for hiding big meals too (ha ha!)


I colour blocked the back as I ran out of fabric, but it gives it a nifty look and feel - it makes it unique like each and every one of us are.

I also created a sultry cold shouldered banded short sleeved shirt option to wear to the office or a night on the town!

I honestly wear this one every few weeks, and the shoulders just give it that sexy and pretty feeling that can easily be covered up with a cardigan for office wear (even then, I wear it uncovered if it's too warm in the office, and it's still office casual approprite for me).

These are extremely quick sews, and are some of my favourite shirts - I really need to create more with a 3/4 length option for the cooler fall months.


***Updated May 2018*** I *did* make Mom a Diana Dolman for Christmas 2017, and she loves wearing it. 


Here's Mom sporting her Diana Dolman on the beach during her 4 month adventure in Florida this past winter. It fit her perfectly - and I made it as a surprise by just taking her measurements on the sly.

Stop by Etsy and pick up your own Diana Dolman pattern to create your perfect shirt!

Bella Sunshine Designs - The Maggie Top

I adore the Classic yet Modern style of Bella Sunshine Designs.

Melissa has done it again with the simple yet flattering Maggie Top, tunic, and Dress! 

I tested for the Tunic length, and even had to take a few inches off, as it is drafted for a 5'-5" height.

I'm a measly 5'-2", however, prefer tunics that I can wear leggings under, and to cover up (aka accentuate) my caboose.

The size assigned to me was again on par - grading from just under my chest to my waist and hips for a perfect flattering (aka not clingy) fit. 

Due to a migraine that lasted a week during testing, I was only able to make my fit test top and my final top - although I will cut a few more up for my fall wardrobe. 

I mean the dress length with leggings - how cute would that be? Throw a vest over top, and - I can't contain my excitement! 

I used Water Tower Textiles fabrics that just make me squeal inside - my favourite colour of light cotton spandex (turquoise/aqua) with total awesomeness - Storm Trooper fabric that is all the rage, but rarely available in Canada.  Patty randomly surprises her customers with character print fabrics (giving us a day or so notice) that her husband and daughter pick up during their trips to the States.  When I saw Star Wars - I HAD to have it. 

Star Wars knit is unheard up in Canada (unless we pick it up at a ridiculous cost from the States), and I really appreciate that Patty limits us to 1 metre maximum per print.  This allows all the crazy seamstresses sitting up waiting for midnight to start to each have the opportunity to order these coveted fabrics.

Decorative Weapons and Pattern Testing = Awesomeness!

Beyond that, the feel is so soft and comfortable, I can easily wear this working up at the camp, at work, or just hanging out at home.

There are 3 necklines, 3 sleeve lengths, 3 hem lengths, and even a bust adjustment for those of us who are larger chested (aka the shirt won't look too big because of sizing up). I find very few pattern makers offer this option, making fits for larger tatas difficult if it's an unknown pattern type.  Grading is an art when it comes to sewing - any help with special pattern adjustments that take out the guesswork is truly appreciated!

I'm looking forward to playing around and hacking this pattern with my own personal touches - such as side ruching (I LOVE ruching), pockets in the dress, a Kangaroo pocket at the front, peek-a-boo hole in the back, lace sleeves with a silkier rayon for a beautiful night-on-the town shirt...and you get the picture.

I have a small pile of Bella Sunshine Design patterns waiting to be created, and know that I'll be able to follow each and every pattern, and trust Melissa's sizing to the "T."

Oh, and you can totally Twirl in this shirt too - I twirl for everything these days. It really is quite the epidemic! 

Grab your copy of The Maggie, and sew away - you can whip out a few in an afternoon...but really - why stop at 2?

New Horizons - The Pierside Pencil Skirt

The Pierside Pencil Skirt is a REALLY quick sew with a little bit of sass and a lot of flattery!

I'm sassy and fun, like the Pierside Pencil Skirt

It's available in 3 lengths, includes a yoga-style waistband (which keeps everything in place), and a variety of hem finishings - side vents, curved, and straight.  As well, my favourite option - POCKETS!

Gnomey meet Tardis

Oh, and you can add in a waist tie...so even if you are not having a confidant day, you can still feel comfortable and plucky as a duck putting on your Pierside!

Normally I am a knee length skirt and dress kind of girl - but with pattern testing, and my personality, I was pushed to go a bit outside my "normal" zone and assigned the Maxi Length skirt option.

Thankfully, unlike the pencil skirts I normally wear to work (aka walking Tuxedo Penguin Mermaid creature), I can actually walk in the maxi and knee length versions without any issues.

It still has that sultry hourglass pencil skirt curve at the sides, just without the awkwardness.

This is due to the side vent (aka the fabric from toes to knee at the sides is hemmed, not sewed together in a seam).  Honestly, this makes it the PERFECT skirt for the beach, the fall, or any time really.

It can be dressed up by using some flashy shiny knit fabric with a lace overlay or ruffle, a bit of ruching on the sides, a big bow at the side instead of a front tie.

Or just spend half an hour sewing up this diverse and COMFORTABLE skirt instead of doing the laundry.

I've worn mine out to restaurants, helping friends move, and even to work. And it's been less than a week since I made my first three!

I also decided I needed to pair mine with at least one Key West Tank top - I opted for the original flared version, and I lurv it!

You can also twirl in it - who knew??

It's flattering, a quick sew, and has a nice overall feel. I can also eat poutine and not feel like I'm squeezed into a tank top that is about to burst.  This tank is all about flattery and forgiveness!

Paired together, this duo is definitely my casual go to, and the skirt is my casual work office attire.

EXTERMINATE!

I can never be fully serious during pattern testing!